While fitting your own built-in cupboards is a reasonably simple project if you have all your timber and board cut to size at your local Builders Warehouse, if in any doubt about your skills for tackling a project of this size, we have listed some suppliers you can get in touch with at the bottom of this page.
Home-Dzine was asked by a reader to design a basic built-in cupboard for a bedroom. This is a basic built-in cupboard design that can be modified to any size, and additional components added as required.
All sections are joined together with wood glue and 3.5 x 40mm screws. The base supports aren't one-hundred percent necessary, but do add strength to the design.
Add the sides and top section to the space. Where existing walls or floors aren't straight, you may need to add fillers or shims to keep the frame square.
If this is going to be a completely free-standing unit, add horizontal beams along the back to keep the unit square and provide added support.
At this stage you can modify the design for more shelving and less hanging space, or vice-versa. This design has one section for shelves and the remainder for hanging space.
Use corner brackets or angle braces to attach the uprights to the base and top of the frame.
The top shelf is optional and you can leave this out if you want to install two levels of hanging space. You can buy a clothes lift that is fitted to the top level and allow easy access by pulling down the hanging rail. The shelf can be mounted via corner brackets or braces, or you can drill to fit adjustable shelf pins.
Fit the shelves using corner brackets or braces, or drill to fit adjustable shelf pins.
If you are using 16mm PG Bison SupaWood for the entire cabinet design, as we have for this project, you don't need to make any allowance for trim or fitted edging. But where you are using PG Bison MelaWood you will need to allow space for an edging strip between the doors. You have the choice between a 1mm and 3mm edging strip that can be fitted onto doors.
For built-in cupboards Euro or concealed hinges are the most popular hardware.
To drill out holes you will need a 35mm Forstner or MAD bit.
On this particular design we have added Euro hinges to the first and second doors on the left, and on the last door. The shelf door is 584mm wide and allows a 8mm overlap on both the left and right of the door for flush mounting onto the frame. We have also left an 8mm gap for fitting the second door in line.
The last two doors are joined together with a piano hinge from top to bottom, before mounting onto the frame with Euro hinges. This allows the door to be folded back out of the way when open. The three doors covering the hanging space can be cut last and any sanding or adjustments made to ensure a perfectly flush fitting.
If you are using SupaWood for assembling the built-in cupboards, you have the option to add decorative elements before painting. This can include 6mm PG Bison SupaWood frames glued onto the front of the doors as I did with my dressing room renovation, or adding moulding and trim.
You will find plenty of tips for working with SupaWood and painting SupaWood on the Home-Dzine website for finishing your new built-in cupboards. And don't forget that Builders Warehouse stocks a wide range of handles, knobs and pulls in various styles.
Summary: How to build a timber cupboard and make timber frames for storage units. This project shows you how to plan, prepare and make your fitted, timber cupboards, including using the appropriate joints.
This project contains basic principles for building a frame for a basic cupboard. It can be expanded on by using different designs, the struts can be moved to accommodate shelves or simply left open plan.
It will give you the idea of building storage space onto your home and can even be adapted to make a corner cupboard. The timber sizes can be changed and more struts can be put in to ensure greater strength if you feel you need it.
The structure can be fixed to any wall, ceiling or floor using our guides to fixing. Check the wall, floor and ceiling area for pipes and cables before you drill anything.
Tools you will need. Most of these can be found at the bottom of this page, the rest can be found by clicking on the toolstore link at the bottom of the page.
Completed Timber Cupboard
We suggest for this simple cupboard you use 50 x 50mm PSE timber. This stands for Planed, Squared Edge and simply means prepared for joinery, as opposed to the "sawn" state timber is in when it leaves the timber mill. It is also called, in its prepared state, PAR which is Planed All Round.
With the number of different door designs available from kitchen and DIY stores these days we suggest it may be a good idea for you to find the doors (if you intend to have them) first. The frame can easily be built around the door size and you will have guaranteed matching your existing decor.
We have deliberately not given any dimensions in the project. Even when planed timber can vary by a mm or so and ceiling heights can vary considerably. Measure your own timber and other dimensions carefully and remember. Measure twice-Cut once
Use a carpenters square to make all cuts. Neat joints are impossible without a completely square face to begin with. Also if the timber is not square at the end, a measurement to the other end will vary, depending on which side you measure from. This can make it impossible to get a decent finish.
Square Cuts and Angled Cuts
A variety of joints can be seen in our timber joints projects and some special joints are shown here. The principle of cutting them is exactly the same as shown in the timber joints projects.
Please remember it takes many years to become a carpenter or joiner. If this is your first project, or you have not done much carpentry, buy an additional length of timber and practice your joints before embarking on a project which will become a feature in your home. An 8 foot length of sawn timber to practice on will cost pennies compared to the waste of materials if you mess up with the real thing.
Check your walls are square to each other using our 3, 4, 5 method shown below.
Floor tiling, carpets, any number of things around the home require a degree of setting out. Remember a quarter of an inch out at one end of a 12 foot room, means about 2 inches out at the other end.
It is important to start any appropriate projects with straight and square lines and it is very easy to accomplish. The method is called 3,4,5 and for the technically minded is based on Pythagoras's theorem which we won't go into now! Suffice to say that if you measure along one wall 3 feet (or metres or any other unit), and along the other wall 4 of the same unit, the diagonal line in between the points should measure 5 units. If it does your walls are square, if it doesn't, you need to mark some points that are square to start your work.
Draw your plan before you start.
Timber Cupboard Plan
All joints need to be "made" before any of the frame is fixed to the wall, floor or ceiling. Once cut, fix the two uprights absolutely vertically on the walls using the struts as spacers to get them in the right position.
Fix the struts and the centre upright together using glue and screws. Make sure the screw heads are counter sunk into the timber or they will push the cladding out. Use a tenon saw to cut the skirting back if you prefer that to cutting the frame around the skirting.
The frame can be fixed to the wall using a 7mm masonry bit with red wall plugs and (for 50mm timber) 3 inch, number 8 screws. For fixings to plasterboard use our guide. Also fixing to lathe and plaster.
Floor/ceiling and cross rail joints
Cross rail to post joints
Mark the position of the struts lightly on the walls when your frame is in place. You will not be able to see them when you are attaching the cladding, making fixing to them a bit of a lottery. The pencil marks can be rubbed out later.
Next, cut and fix the shelf or shelves. This can be done more easily when you can get to all sides. The side rails which support the cladding should be fixed at no less than 600mm centres for 12.5mm cladding and if your cladding is thinner than that, they should be spaced at 450mm centres.
The shelves and cladding material we have left up to you.
Shelf and Cladding Ideas
We always prefer to use screws to fix the cladding to the frame even if we are using plasterboard. Sink screw heads into the cladding and fill over them to get a flush face on which to decorate.
The joints between the cupboard and the wall/ceiling can easily be filled with flexible filler or decorators caulk using an sealant or "applicator" gun as shown below. Alternatively you may like to fix some coving or a shaped timber moulding.
Don't fancy doing this project yourself? We work with Plentific to ensure that we recommend only reliable and trustworthy tradesmen.
All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards
Tools to Complete the Above Project
Add extra insulation to your loft area without loosing storage space easily!
Not the project you're looking for? Try these great projects on similar topics.
Steel cupboards: slim, strong, filigree.
Asisto cupboards have many outstanding characteristics that can only be offered by furniture with a steel carcass: filigree edges, doors optionally made of wood, steel or glass, flexible top-cupboard solutions, height adjustment possible from the interior – and much more. Asisto cupboards are delivered pre-assembled. Their low weight and sturdy design ensure that they are perfectly suited to being moved and relocated. Thanks to their excellent price-performance ratio, Asisto cupboards are also extremely economical.
Whether you choose a cupboard with double doors, sliding doors or tambour doors or a drawer cabinet, a true characteristic of the Asisto cupboard system is the slim, delicate 8-mm edge which is a recurrent theme throughout the entire range. The attractive design and the outstanding durability of this steel furniture are blended together here into a remarkable unity.
Attractive and filigree design:
Asisto cupboards possess a flush base. The filigree side walls therefore run continuously along the entire cupboard height.
Insulation of the steel doors:
The steel doors always have a double-walled design. The sandwich design with an internal bee-board filling (special honeycomb material) provides incomparable stability and minimizes noise pollution without significantly increasing the weight.
Light, quiet and robust – with super low-friction casters:
Asisto sliding-door cupboards are a convincing choice because they run smoothly for years.
The adjustable hinges (225° opening angle) are extra-flat and so make the interior of the cupboard even more accessible.Patented acoustic tambour:
Absorbs the noise, improves the acoustics – and looks good whilst doing so: the smooth-running and patented special tambour in awardwinning design absorbs the lion‘s share of the noises that occur in everyday office life. It can absorb nearly seven times as much noise as a conventional cupboard in many frequency ranges.Information material
It's your choice.
You can find the perfect table and cupboard for every application in the Asisto range. Because we set great store by variability. Do you want to bet that the range also has the perfect choice for you?
Your C+P furniture adviser will be glad to give you more information and to demonstrate the ideal solution for you.Asisto cupboards from C+P are available…
…in all the conventional heights and widths
from a filing cabinet for five binder rows on top of each other through to a desk-high cabinet with two binder rows and various top cupboards.
Widths from 800 to 1200 mm.
…in various door models
as a cupboard with double doors, sliding doors, tambour doors or as a drawer cabinet – orwithout doors as an open bookcase.
…with various front materials
Asisto cupboards are equipped as a standard feature with doors in wood decor. Upon request, we also supply Asisto cupboards with doors in steel, glass or genuine-wood varnish.
From the wall system to matching mobile and desk-high pedestals and even to reception counters: the Asisto supplementary range leaves nothing to be desired.
An ingenieous combination.
You can choose from many attractive colour coatings at C+P as a standard feature. We are also always glad to fulfil all your own particular colour wishes. You can find the entire C+P colour and decor selection and additional information on the topic of colour design in the latest catalogue. Have fun choosing!
Apart from the classic carcass colours light grey, white aluminium and black grey,
many other options are also available for Asisto.
Current decors are available for tables, cover plates, cupboard doors and reception counters.
Vivid, attractive shades are suitable particularly as door or feature colours.
The right choice for representative areas. Many contemporary varnishes are available.Fairs & Events
From October 4 – 6, 2017 you can visit the Christmann & Pfeifer Gruppe at the collaborative booth from the Region Mittelhessen in Hall C1, Booth 040/140 at the EXPO REAL in Munich.
News from our neighbouring country: During a major event for resellers and architects we will present the extended C + P production plant in Legnica (Poland) on 8 September 2017.
Allows cupboard stacking, turns auth zones into a sphere, and optionally disables influence.
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