There's no ignoring the impression left by an outstanding build. Cars of a certain caliber will speak to anyone with even a bit of oil running through their veins. However, often times more important than the car is the person behind it - commemorating and celebrating craftsmanship, skill, thought, and imagination are something StanceWorks has always stuck to. Yet it's a rare instance that we look beyond the gorgeous car - in this case, a true jaw-dropper, instead to reflect upon character. It's easy to look on the bright side; to ignore the character flaws of a craftsman when looking at his creation. Be that as it may, when an individual's character compliments their car, it simply becomes that much better.
There wasn't much different between the first time I met Alex Yoshioka and the last time we hung out. He's always been a quiet guy without a ton to say, but I respect him for it. Perhaps I'm fooled by an impressive facade, but I'd go on record as saying that for Alex, it's never been about being the center of attention. Let's be honest: everyone loves it, including Alex; however, unlike so many with a goal to be in the limelight and at the forefront, Alex has been preoccupied with simply doing his own thing.
The west-coast BMW scene is lacking in comparison to our friends back east. European cars in general fall to the wayside, as the Japanese marques see far more popularity on this side of the country. Even Alex found himself wanting an AE86 when the time came to buy his first car, but his father had other ideas. Dad's eyes were set on something newer and a bit more respectable; convincing fathers that mid-80s Corollas are worthwhile is a challenge familiar to many of us. Instead, his father wanted to take him along to look at a 1994 325is - black on black with 190,000 miles.
It was hard for Alex to get excited about the prospect of owning a car his heart wasn't set on. While such a car is a privilege, and he knows this rather well, tossing out the ideas that come with daydreaming about cars during fourth period in high school is tough. But the two took the car for a test drive, Alex still sporting his learner's permit, and the car seemed to hit all marks. Alex's old man did some negotiating, and minutes later, the car was his.
It's been a full five years since Alex got his hands on the E36, and what started off as the automotive equivalent of an arranged marriage has turned into a true bond between a man and his car. He's piled on more than 70,000 miles, a decent chunk for a car that has spent the majority of those years rather close to the tarmac. As time went on, the parts list slowly added up, making the rounds at the expected stops: intake, chip, exhaust, coilovers, and a slew of M3 body parts. Wild? Of course not. But it wasn't what Alex was after.
While the world-class polishing job might push it a bit, Alex is a fan of the somewhat arbitrarily-defined "OEM plus" styling. "I tried to make this car as clean and subtle as possible. Hence why there is no crazy camber, no overly wide wheels. just a nice, clean look." While his wheel and tire fitment is aggressive, to put it lightly, the car skirts on the fine line between sporty and classy, radical and reserved. It's hard to not turn a head and watch as it goes by; "Damn," I caught myself saying under my breath as I watched him pull into the parking lot.
Alex has been through countless sets of wheels before arriving on the Rotiform SJCs. Style 5s, 19s, and 32s have all found their way on to his E36. AMG Aeros, Work VSXXs - he's tried a bit of everything, but he's finally hit his stride. The SJCs stand as his favorite thus far. He went with 17x9s on all four corners, a far cry from the folks who are stuffing 11s under their rear arches. However, it falls in line with his character. Alex's goal has never been to "push limits" and to win a non-existent reward based on internet credibility. Instead, his car has simply been about style. A final offset of +12 for the wheels ensures that the 9s are sitting as good as the best.
It's only been a few short weeks since Alex bolted on his latest wheels, yet his car has already found its way to the depths of blogs and forums. He's got some seriously stiff competition with the likes of Shaun Quill and Derek Buehler back on the east coast, arguably trouncing the rest of the BMW world when it comes to stance. Alex's car isn't quite there, but it comes with something a bit different - a special and refreshing sense of modesty and reservation from a one-of-a-kind owner. That's not to downplay the alluring party-on-wheels nature Derek and Shaun's cars have accrued - instead, we're celebrating the more refined side of things.
Alex has been a supporter of StanceWorks, through and through, for as long as I can recall. From events to meets, stickers to hashtags, Alex has been part of the SW family, and best of all, he's carried himself and his car in a way that deems worthy for all to see. His car alone speaks volumes - but its quiet owner speaks far, far more.
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Leave a comment and participate in the discussion.Comments on Genuine – Alex Yoshioka’s 1994 E36
animated gif OR JEDI MINDTRICKS. sick car. sick post.
Mike, thanks a lot for this set, the last photo is very beautiful
Never thought much about the E36’s but like this example have started to appreciate them more and more. This is a beautiful build showing the perfect amount of restraint and still looking fabulous.
+1 for first animated image
The design of the wheels really hit the jackpot, the sparkling colors blinds me and it really makes me crave for that kind of car or design.
Mike needs to lay off the contrast a bit, or get a calibrated monitor.
Ritter is posting some good shots.
The sad truth is Alex lost his soul to fame. Pretty much dumped all his friends that stood by him in the beginning. He noticed how much coverage he was getting in the internet and social media, which gave him an enormous ego. The once humble and quiet person now a lost attention craving elitist.
After the insane success of the E30, the E36 had some big shoes to fill in. Of course, BMW delivered and made the E36 the most luxurious and comfortable 3-series yet. The E36 was available in a coupe, sedan, convertible, and a wagon model. BMW also produced the “compact” model which never sold well in the US but sold amazingly elsewhere.
After the insane success of the E30 M3, BMW upped production a huge amount. Making the E36 M3 attainable to the average Joe.
Just like the E36, the E46 had some fairly big shoes to fill in. BMW has always been good at out-doing themselves, and they did with the E46. Not only was it more luxurious, faster, and safer. But, it was only 100 lbs heavier. BMW used quite a few light weight materials and techniques to keep the weight of the E46 down.
Just like the E36 before it, the E46 was available as a coupe, sedan, convertible, and a wagon. However, the “compact” model was missing from the lineup.E36 vs E46: Reliability/Strength
Once BMW started changing directions with the 3-series and making it more luxurious, it has lost some of its superb reliability. That said, the E36 is a fairly reliable vehicle, but not nearly as strong as the E30 before it.
The E46 shares many components with the E36, and as such, shares many of the reliable traits. But, with all the new luxury tech of the E46 chassis, the reliable isn’t as good as the E36.E36 vs E46: Luxury
Now, this shouldn’t surprise you to much, but as cars get more advanced they also get much more luxurious. So when comparing the luxury features of the E36 vs E46 take into account the major age difference.
The E36 was already a massive leap from the E30 when it came to luxury features and overall comfort of the car. It had a more advanced suspension system and was designed to be a true entry level executive car. E36’s came with power everything, leather interior, and a pretty quite and smooth ride.
The E46 is for the most part a lot like the E36 on the inside. Things like power windows, power locks, and power seats are pretty standard on the E46. They both use really nice leather and pretty nice materials. But, the E46 feels nicer and more modern over all.E36 vs E46: Price
While prices for E30’s have gone up huge amounts, the prices for E36’s and E46’s have gone down a ton. Prices for a nice E36 range from $3-5k, and prices for a nice E46 range from $5-7k. This is of course very dependent on where you live. Those prices were an average of many different listings in the Phoenix, Arizona region.
Some area’s in the US, E46’s can rise as high as $10k for a decent condition model. Thats insane!E36 vs E46: Maintenance Cost
This is where many people fear ever owning a BMW or any german car for that matter. Is a BMW more expensive to fix than a Honda? Yes. Is a BMW way nicer to drive than a Honda? Yes. Understand that you get what you pay for. BMW’s can be very complex and as such the technicians who work on them get paid a lot to understand how BMW’s work.
With that said, the E36 is dirt cheap to repair. This is because its mostly devoid of the complex system’s mentioned above. When BMW produced the E36 they were just getting focused on making the 3-series about luxury. So, it wasn’t filled with insane tech that can break easily.
The E46 on the other hand is nearly 2x the cost per repair of the E46. This is because they are much more complex in and out. This makes them harder to work on, and thats going to cost more. The E46 is actually fairly close in repair cost to the E39 (5-series).E36 vs E46: M3
As a fellow enthusiast, I’m sure this is the only part you are actually interested in. How does the E36 M3 stack up against the E46 M3? Well lets look at the stats.
As you can tell from the numbers, the E46 is WAY more powerful. The crazy part is that its larger in every way, and has more luxury features, but doesn’t weigh anymore than an E36 M3. This is because of all the light weighting that BMW put the E46 M3 under.
Put these two on any track anywhere in the world and the E46 M3 will outrun the E36 M3 like its sitting still.E36 vs E46: Track Use
The E36 is a great platform to learn on. It’s very well balanced, and has lots of room to grow into. But, it is limited by its narrow fender wells. The E46 suspension and chassis setup is nearly identical to the E36’s chassis. But, the E46 weighs about 100 lbs more than the E36.
So, logic would tell you that the E36 would be better due to its weight advantage. But, the E46 is a stiffer chassis over all, has a much wider body and can fit much wider tires, and has way more power. The E36 is better if you are on a budget, but if you want the ultimate track car go with an E46.
So, not only is the E46 more luxurious, but its also faster. Its faster in a straight line and a curvy road thanks to BMW’s light weighting. But, its about 2x more to purchase and repair an E46 than an E36.
If you have the money, an E46 is the better car wether you want a daily driver or a track car. But, if you are on a budget the E36 is defiantly a better car. Its much cheaper and easier to repair, its also cheaper to buy in the first place.
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E30 vs E36: Which One is Better and Why?
Here’s What Makes the FC RX7 so Awesome5 Comments
Is that the weight for the E36 vert?? 3,175lbs is the standard E36 M3 weight.
What are you smoking? A pristine e46 M3 for 10k? I’ll take ten of em. Try 20k easily.
He said “E46”, he didn’t say “E46 M3”
I want to know the colour code and paint brand of e36 dark blue with carrier at 1st google image…thanks
Thanks this was interesting. What about the cost of maintaining for a non M E36 Vs E46Leave a Reply Cancel reply Latest Posts
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Oil types make me feel sick because I usually don’t understand them. What weight is better?! operating temperature! thick oils and how this will affect the performance and the age of my engine. Anyway, today I felt like reading about these stuff to make sure I won’t feel sick next time I hear someone talking about this. I think you should read this article because it will definitely add something to your knowledge that you just didn’t learn (well, or hear about before). The article was found here. Thanks Cary for the article (the author).
Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible for your mistakes man!
1) New BMW’s require synthetic oil. As far as weight, only certain production dates of M3’s and M5’s require the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.
2) The Factory BMW Synth 5w-30 is a version of Castrol TXT Softect sold overseas. A few important things about the BMW oil:
It is a Group III hydrocracked oil which cannot be called synthetic in Europe.
It is a heavy 30 weight (30 weight can run from 9.3-12.5cst@100c, the BMW oil is about 12.2cst).
It is a ACEA A3 oil which means that it is approved for longer change intervals and has a HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) measured at 150c of greater than 3.5.
3) In the US, the only Group IV PAO Synthetics that are available are
Amsoil (but not the Xl-7500).
German Castrol 0w-30 (it has the red label and says on the back, “Made in Germany). Redline is a Group V PolyEster based oil. All other Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline “synthetics” are a Group III hydrocracked oil. It is debated how much better Group IV base oils are than group III, but generally they are considered better.
4) When looking for oil for any BMW that does not require Castrol TWS 10w-60, you want to purchase an oil that has either/both of the following ratings:
BMW LL-98 or LL-01.
5) Note that Mobil 1 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are NOT ACEA A3 or BMW LL approved oils. This is because they all are thin 30 weight oils (approximately 9.8-10 CST@ 100c) and have HTHS of approximately 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 and 15w-50 are A3 rated and the Ow-40 is BMW LL-01 approved. For 99% of climates and users 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the appropriate grade. There are some 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils (like the BMW 5w-30) that are formulated on the heavier end of the 30 weight scale and are accordingly rated A3. These oils will work well also. LOOK FOR THAT ACEA A3 rating. If the oil doesn’t have it, pass on it.
6) Some people seem confused about how oil thickness is measured. The first number (0W, 5w, 10w, 15w, etc) is a measurement of how thick the oil is at temperatures of -35c- -20c (depends on the grade). The lower this first number the thinner the oil is at LOW temperatures. The second number (30, 40, 50) refers to oil thickness at 100c (operating temperature). 30 weight can be from 9.3-12.5 cst, 40 weight from 12.6-16.2 cst, 50 weight from 16.3-22cst (approximate). So you can have two oils, one called a 5w-30 (i.e. bmw oil) another 0w-40 (Mobil 1) that are very similar thicknesses at operating temperature. Compare this to Mobil 1 Xw-30 which is close to a 20 weight oil at 100c.
7) BMW’s recommended interval of 12,000-15,000 miles is too long. Used oil analysis has shown the BMW oil is generally depleted at 10,000 miles. Running it longer results in excess wear. It is highly recommended that you change your oil once between each BMW recommended interval (approx 7000-7500 miles). If you want to run your oil the BMW recommended interval, I would suggest that you use Mobil 1 0w-40 or Amsoil 5w-40 and change the oil filter at 7500 miles. I would encourage a full oil change at 7500 if you want your engine to last.
If you want to spend a few hours learning about oil, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com! But it’s like a different language…. so which one do you suggest if you were going to change your oil?
Unless you have an M3, in the following order:
Mobil 1 0w-40, and
If you can’t find the 0w-40, the Mobil 1 SUV 5w-40 is a great oil. Can’t find either of these, then go to your dealer and get the BMW 5w-30.
The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil, widely available (Walmart, Checker, Kragen, Autozone), and moderately priced. It is factory fill in Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and Austin Martin.56 thoughts on “ What type of oil should I use for my BMW E36? ”
Hi fascinating information on oils, I mean that sincerely, fantastic but this question of what oil to use shouldn’t arise unless we are speaking of a 28 Bugatti or a Lanchester or something rare.Some people just have to fiddle thinking the manufacturer who spends hundreds of millions over a series with development and who is ultimately responsible for warranty…can’t know as much as someone on internet, the local speed shop or…….. The fact is they recommend oils after huge testing of all major brands in their own product under the most arduous conditions. What they recommend is not only what you should use will safeguard you in the event of a warranty claim.Under ridiculous conditions such as drag racing no manufacturer will recommend as they may attract liability however that’s where the auto engineering scientists can assist…not a question to ask of people who ‘love’ some particular brand. Cheers Tony
Thanks for the info!!I’ll keep using what i use. Its been doing great so far… Thanks!!
Hi guys, … I have a BMW E36 328iSE Touring ’98…
It’s now on 160k miles and been driven quite hard for last 30k.
I live in UK where temps range from -10c to +28c seasonally.
I’ve been using Castrol 5w30 year round. My only problems have been my valve cover and PCV getting full of sludge. Had to replace hoses too. I expect this is just down to mileage and not the oil grade. I’ve been trawling the web recently in search of more opinions on correct oils for BMW’s and found this amazing info which will help most BMW owners choose the right oil for the climate in which they live.. Hope this helps as it did me; – Click on the link below;
Hi 160K miles is getting up there..heading towards 300K. There’s “hard driving” and then there’s HARD driving..flogging a car which has minimal maintenance etc etc…Your history is minimal…but indicative…Moisture will build up in sump in such wide temperature range (down to 10 below)and exhibit as sludge unless mileage marms engine well. Hard driving over short distances will not help. Oil may need changes more often, filter changed and sump cleaned and attention paid to the dominant temperature…you may be experiencing a worn engine with other problems PCV valve fault etc….Sludge in hoses and vents doesn’t help. For me, I’d do compression tests properly, the typical polluiton gear checks to see crancase pollution gear working well…..drop the sump and clean it….replace oil and filter with advice from BMW itself, not the local expert, and take the car often for and hours casual driving. By the way probaly hundreds if not thousands of V6 engines have been replaced when the problem is blocked hoses…..sludge is a problem. Cheers
I’m really skeptical about running synthetic oil in my bimmer (92 325i E36 – 177,000 miles). I purchased it a few months ago and it’s due for a change…. but, I’ve heard about synth oil leaking through the seals and gaskets in engines with a higher mileage or older in general. I came across this site which explained why oil tends to leak and how synthetic oils play a role, “Pros and Cons”
The decision of weather to use conventional or synthetic oil is really a difficult topic to disscuss. I called up the dealer ship, and they said to use 15W-40 which they sell, they also carry 5W-30 which is for newer BMW’s (Both Synthetic BMW Brands). I’ve read that 15W-40 is a register/trademark oil by and for only BMW, (to be verified), which can pressure you to buying it from them because that’s where you’ll find it. I’m still undecided as other BMW owners recommend Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W-40. Castrol seems to be the oil supplier for BMW Oil. (also to be verified).
Any Suggestions or Experiences?
There seems to be a chasm here with oils.Once upon a time Castor Oil was a great asset in racing cars. Today’s mineral and orther oils are not “either-or.”
There are not just Synthetic OR non Synthetics and a part of the problem is pople not comprehending tha Synthetics ARE found leaking after replacing standard oils with pure Synthetics. Viscocity seems poorly understood and made an eclusive registry…thus statements like “5w-30 seems to be the most popular/ recommended etc”.
That quasi recommendation is totally irrelevant without a raft of environmental and mechanical issues being considered.
Yes one could improve engine life with oil changes at 1000kMs and in some condiitons that becomes essential. It makes no sense to say BMW recommend oil changes too long…the fact is they strike medium views on a whole range of environments and THEY control warranty not someone in these columns. The first port of coil for oil recommendations is the manufacturer of the vehicle.
Not all oils are 100% one type or another and when using synthetic rather than the standard oil you should check with the manufacturer or second at a major BMW servicentre and ask specific questions…not vague ones leading to support of something contra to the manufacturer which you read somewhere.
All my cars are turbo’s and I practice what I preach. That’s not through sheepishness or ignorance …As a young man I built very high performance street negines (and gearboxes) including Pontiac flat head, Sidevalve Ford , later other Fords, Holden, Oldsmobile, Buick 8 Fiats of various types Alfa Romeo, later SAAB and Cosworth. None ever died from oil problems of any type….except for a 13:1 compression Pontiac 357 built for me by a qualified mechanic posing as a “Pontiac expert” at Granville NSW who was utterly ignorant of high performance engine demands…I was 19 and knew vastly more about the needs required of mechanical alterations than he did as it eventuated..and he was a qualified mechanic, about 40 with a shed full of GTO’s, Furys etc….Te story of the results of his ignorance and his criminal incompetence and his lies would stagger you….
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